Cass-Lagoon Saddle Tramp.

This trip had been gaining momentum for a while and finally came to fruition when some friends (Jason, Al and Richard) set a date for it on a what is known as Show Weekend (a local holiday) in Christchurch.

The tramp is not a circular route so having two cars was key to avoiding a hitch hike for someone at the beginning or end. Although normally a two day trip (33kms), we decided to knock off a wee bit on the Friday evening therefore enjoying two nights in the bush. We also elected to walk the opposite way to normal which made for steeper climbs but provided logical overnight stops. Leaving Christchurch just after lunch on Friday we arrived at Cass, dropped a car at the finish point, then drove round to Arthur's Pass to file an 'intentions' form. The kind Ranger in the Department of Conservation (DOC) office informed us that our cars may get vandalised at the track ends, particularly at Cass. Amazing, even in New Zealand!! She told us of an alternative safe parking place near Cass station. So, off we go to move Jason's car. On arrival at Cass we spotted a rather weather beaten local who said it was fine to leave the car there. He was actually pretty scary looking and looked like he was more than a match for a bus load of the local vandals. At last, we drove to the start and got the kit sorted out. For a while there it felt like we may be spending all weekend driving backwards and forwards between Cass and Bealey.

The plan was to sleep in huts, so no tents were required. The New Zealand hut system is very useful for trampers. They vary from old very basic hunting huts with just a couple of bunks to magnificent 20 bunk facilities provided by DOC. A fast gear sort at the car meant we were under way by 16:45, plenty of time to get to Lagoon Saddle by nightfall.

The track starts off quite steeply through native beech forest past the Bealey Hut (6 bunk). This must qualify as the closest hut to a car park and I confess to using it a few years ago just to introduce my five year old son to the delights of sleeping in a DOC hut.

Jason is sporting a brand new pair of boots that he hasn't had time to break in and within 30 minutes is developing blisters. As a GP he is adequately qualified to deal with his discomfort and we have a rest while Jason tapes up his heels. About 90 minutes from the car the track breaks out of the forest onto the upper slopes of Mt. Bruce. The views towards Arthur's Pass are superb. Parts of the track up here are a touch boggy but nothing serious enough to detract from the views. The orange track markers are numerous and navigation in poor visibility would not be a problem. Some low cloud causes us to put on our jackets but soon the track rounds the corner towards Lagoon Saddle. This section has a lot of boardwalk to protect the environment. There is not much danger of getting off route!

Soon a whiff of smoke drifts up from the bush, presumably where the huts are located. This induces a bout of ‘bed space anxiety’ and Alistair skips to the front thus increasing his chances of a comfortable night. It has to be said that at moments like this the extra couple of Kgs each to carry tents do not look like too much of a burden. On arrival at the 2 bunk A frame our worst fears are confirmed as it is occupied by two French hunters. The woodshed looks good and could accommodate two and two could sleep under the hut if necessary. The French occupants don’t seem keen to have anyone on the hut floor which could accommodate two bodies if required. In their defence they did offer us a loan of a tent and there is another 2 bunk hut across the creek which we have yet to check out. The last resort would be to invoke the 1944 plea, this goes along the lines of “Come on lads we cleared the Germans out for you in ’44, can we please sleep on your floor?” Everything is resolved peacefully as we discover that the other 2 bunk hut is quite inhabitable with floor space for two. I get the brew on while the others set about lighting a fire. Al does a great impersonation of a set of bellows while Richard comes back with dry wood. At one point it looked like Richard was collecting enough wood to build a new hut. An hour later we have some brews inside us and a great fire going not to mention the odd can of beer that has found it way up the hill.

The morning dawns clear and cool and I am not a popular member of the party. It seems that I have been snoring for most of the night and am destined to spend any further nights at least 200m from the rest of the party.

Today will be a reasonably comfortable trip down the Harper River to the Hamilton Hut. It should take approximately five hours of walking time. The first hour takes an undulating path through glorious beech forest until the track emerges onto the river bed at the junction with Long Creek. If the track is being walked the other way which is more normal this junction is about the only place where care must be taken to take the right branch. The river is low and crossing it where necessary is done with feet kept dry. That is a luxury in New Zealand tramping. The next kilometre is a bit more open with views of the surrounding snow capped tops. A brief trip away from the river over a steep little spur and we come down to the West Harper hut. This is a six canvas bunk hut with an earth floor. The timber is rough cut from trees giving the place an amazing character. A great place for a lunch stop! During lunch Richard spots a couple of fine looking trout in a nearby pool but he has no fishing tackle with him.
The early afternoon brings a pleasant continuation down towards the Hamilton hut. During this section Richard must have doubled his mileage as he investigates the river looking for more fish. Just before the confluence of the Harper and Hamilton rivers there is a swing bridge across the river, this is closely followed by a walkwire which would only be needed in times of flood but we felt obliged to test it anyway. Probably in the hope that one of us might fall into the river. We arrive at the Hamilton Hilton five minutes later.

This is some hut. It is more like the standard of the fully serviced huts on the ‘Great Walks’. You need your own cooking gear but there are two rooms (20 bunks) and a magnificent fireplace. We arrived before 2pm so are alone and have the whole afternoon to lounge around. Al and Jason go for a sleep and Richard and I get to read old editions of esteemed publications like ‘Pig Hunter monthly’. Whilst I can understand the thrill of the hunt I must admit to being fascinated by the fact that virtually every image in these publications has a human carrying a dead animal which is bleeding down the back of his neck. I’ll give that bit a miss thanks.

Unfortunately for us at around 6pm a couple of other parties showed up to swell the hut numbers a bit. After our meal we went for a little 20 minute walk up to Mirror Tarn which is just uphill from the other side of the walkwire, this proved to be a worthwhile venture, as the tarn lived up to it’s name. After going back to the hut to share Jason’s whisky we were quickly onto the luxurious mattresses.

Cultural differences can be interesting at times. However one of our cohabiting parties decided 10pm was a good time to start their meal and proceeded to produce a cacophony of sound that the NZ Symphony Orchestra would have been proud of. They also seemed to be doing as Jason so aptly put it “A Gordon bloody Ramsay” in that their meal seemed to be a very elaborate affair. Alistair finally cracked and marched towards the door. This was of some concern as Alistair is a black belt in Tae Kwon Do and the perpetrators of the racket were Asian tourists who may well have similar skills. I had horrible visions of the immaculate Hamilton Hut looking like something from a “Kill Bill” outtake. Fortunately the stern suggestion that they should think about going to bed like everyone else reduced the din to the ‘neighbour with a drum kit’ level without damage to the hut.
Another beautiful day dawned and I was relieved to hear that I had not been snoring and keeping everyone awake. Maybe I’ll be allowed along again after all. A quick breakfast and pack up and we’re off, diligently striding for home, keen to relieve our wives who have happily taken over all domestic duties for the long weekend. About 1000m from the hut Al realises that he needs to ‘go’ again. This became a recurring theme over the next couple of ours. There was some concern that we all may succumb to the same affliction. Fortunately he confesses to eating several bags of dried fruit for breakfast. Aha! Maybe that was the problem.

The climb up out of the Hamilton valley is steep but not too long (approximately 400m), the Cass saddle is a glorious place with views both ways and great views of the tops of the Craigieburn Range.























Incredibly it was completely windless up there. I suspect that is a rare situation.

The descent past the Cass Saddle (3 bunk) hut was pleasant and uneventful and we eventually reached the Cass river bed at Long Valley stream. The walk out to the road was a bit of a grunt making it a 6.5 hour day. The temperature was climbing rapidly with a light westerly wind so after collecting the other car we managed a cold drink in the Bealey pub before driving home to Christchurch.








This is a superb tramp in an area that is quite often drier than the main divide. Route finding is not an issue but the rivers could be a lot more problematic in wet conditions.