The Town of Light.

A plan had been hatched a couple of months ago to have a mountain biking weekend on the West Coast, weather permitting. The intended venue was to be Reefton also known as "The town of light"! In 1988 Reefton became the first town in New Zealand and the Souther Hemisphere to receive electricity, and its streets were lit by commercial electricity generated by the Reefton Power Station. Rich veins of gold found in a quartz reef near the town led to its name, and also to its former name of Quartzopolis. Gold was first discovered near the town in 1866, although the major discovery was made in 1870. Soon after, the town briefly boasted a population of several thousand. This has now dwindled to less than a thousand.

The weather forecast was indeed favourable so Andy, Nathan and I left Christchurch on Friday afternoon after collecting Sean from the airport. During one comfort stop it was noted that Sean's bike was close to parting company with the rack, some people will do anything for an easy weekend. Three hours later and we were in the "Town of Light". We were booked into the Bellbird Motel, on locating the establishment it was clear that we would be "Living the Dream" for the next 48 hours.

 

Wilson's Hotel was our chosen venue for an evening meal. A young guys versus older guys rivalry developed around the pool table. The winning pair were the ones who played slightly less appallingly. To cap the evening off I won the raffle. The prize was a cardboard sheet covered in lottery scratch cards. Interesting! Some of the locals didn't look too impressed that some 'out of towner' was making off with the booty. At one point we were slightly concerned that a lady who described herself as a 'fishmonger' was going to try and make off with Andy so we made a dash for our luxury accommodation suite.

So, down to business, we all made it through the night despite the scratch cards being in the motel room. The proposed itinerary for the day was the Big River to Waiuta track, a 55km grade 4 track with an extra 25kms on the road to complete the route to Reefton. The early morning mist kept things cool as we slowly climbed out of Reefton.

 The gravel road gave way to a progressively rougher 4WD track which climbed up past miscellaneous old mine workings to about 700 metres.

A very enjoyable descent then takes you down to the Big River workings. The DOC Big River hut commands a fine position above the old buildings, the outlook from the hut is quite superb.

After the hut some sections of boardwalk wind across a high plateau that is reminiscent of Gouland Downs on the Heaphy Track.

After passing the St. George mine the Waiuta track contours round a steep hillside for several kilometers with several side creek crossings to challenge the adventurous rider.

On reaching Waiuta there are plenty of old mine relics to interest any historians among your group.

There had been much talk up to this point about riding back the way we had come rather than doing the 25 kms on the road back to Reefton. The bluff and bluster had been coming from the young ones. Interestingly at this point there was no real discussion and the shorter, quicker way back was opted for. Everyone was out of water at this point and a stop at a house led to Sean sprinting back out of the property with a particularly loud canine in hot pursuit. The beast turned out to a labrador trying it's hardest to lick him to death. A polite request at a house further out towards the main road enabled us to fill our bottles. There are some 'interesting' characters with 'interesting' lifestyles in these parts!

The road sign said 24kms to Reefton so it was suggested that we do 1km turns on the front, only six turns each and we would be home. After a couple of rotations Sean was sliding off the back mumbling something about it being too much like road riding. It has to be said that Sean's Bear Grylls biking attire looked as far out of place on this part as my lycra had in the bush.  Not much over an hour later and we were back in Reefton.

Three quarters of the team went for a swim in the river but as I am made of cardboard when it comes to swimming in the wild (or do I mean freezing river) I made do with a shower. On their return the boys were concerned that Andy may have exhibited his bottom too close to a bunch of locals and attempts were made to fortify the motel room.

Not wanting to brave the night life of Reefton again we opted for the fish and chip shop followed by planning for a Sunday ride of Kirwan's track as described in the Dave Mitchell book. We had seen a video on the Quartzopolis website showing a group getting a helicopter to Kirwan's hut followed by a descent back to Reefton. We were slightly concerned by the Grade 5 (Expert) rating.

The next morning Sean spoke to a 'bloke in the cafe'. Later in the day this guy was to become known as 'that tw** in the cafe'!! This local authority assured Sean that Kirwan's track was a straightforward old pack track. We all felt better about the mission, myself included, despite my experience of Andy's ability to grossly underestimate a tramping or biking challenge.

Before departure Andy felt the need to go looking for some bottom relief and came back with a one liter tub of petroleum jelly. Apparently it was cheaper to buy this ridiculous quantity of no brand stuff than normal Vaseline. Andy always likes a bargain. Next thing the guys are all taking turns with the petroleum jelly. It seems that I am the only one with a decent pair of bike shorts.

The road section round to Capleston went well, followed by a couple of kms of 'nice' track through the forest. It wasn't long however before the gradient picked up and I found myself dismounting so frequently that it was easier just to push. Nice bush but after another couple of hours pushing I'd had enough. Fortunately the 1km to the top sign appeared and all was well again. Now for the amazing downhill? WRONG!! If you want an amazing downhill you must turn round and ride back down the way you have ascended. We were following the route to Montgomerie Hut on the Waitahu river. This section consists of about 7kms of tumbling downhill and climbing over fallen trees. This is definitely the furthest I've ever had to push and carry a mountain bike. I really do believe that a mountain biking guide should be a little more explicit about the nature of a section like this. Unless you relish a bush bash with a bike then don't even consider it. At one one point on this section Andy found a 50m section that he could ride an proceeded to announce that the track was 'sublime'. You have admire his ability to find the positives in a situation! Not far beyond this point I was at the rear trying to ride another 'sublime' 25 metres when I hit a hidden tree root and went straight over the handlebars. I was very lucky not to suffer an inconvenient injury, the worst thing was that no one else had witnessed my aerobatics....

Once we arrived at Montgomerie Hut things improved significantly and the 4WD track out to the road was reasonably quick. This was fortunate as by this time we were racing to get Sean back in time for his flight. In the end we had an 8 hour day with about 20% spent riding...

On balance the weekend was a great adventure, Reefton has some really nice riding that could vary enormously depending on the weather conditions. I will be studying all guidebook information very closely in future and reading between the lines for clues about 'total epics'.

Thanks to Andy, Sean and Nathan for the good company.

Big South Island Loop.

In late October I was talked or tricked into riding a Christchurch-Wanaka-West Coast-Christchurch loop over six days. It was a brilliant trip with the amazing support of Andy's parents Netty and Tony. No more words from me as it's all covered here..... http://andysrides.blogspot.com

Blue Mountain Loop.

There's nothing like choosing the closest weekend to the shortest day for a nice overnight bike trip. Plan A had been the Avoca valley but the amount of remaining snow on the ground had caused Andrew to make enquiries about an alternative. We settled on the loop through Orari Gorge and back over from Blue Mountain Station via Bernard and Howards stream to the Andrews stream.
Andrew and Nathan had previously completed this ride in midsummer and had used the luxurious shearer's quarters at Blue Mountain Station. These were unavailable due to the pipes having been disconnected to prevent frost damage. The land owner had hesitated on the phone before offering use the use of the old hut below McLeods Spur, perhaps he was contemplating the hassle that removing three frozen city boys would give him.

A late 2:30pm start from the car would still give us plenty of time to cover the 15kms to the hut without resorting to headlights.This first section of the ride follows a pleasant 4WD track round severalspurs and over small climbs.What we didn't count on was the three punctures sustained over the first 30 minutes. Incredible, I seem to go for ages without a puncture on a mountain bike and suddenly there is batch of them. In fact when Andrew reported the third puncture I thought he was winding me up! Despite this we still rolled up to the hut as the light was starting to fade. The hut was situated in the only part of the terrain still heavily frosted but fortunately the wood shed was well stocked.

Andrew got the fire going in no time at all and Nathan and I tried to get most of the rodent poo off the bunks. This is definitely a hut with character, I think it's fair to say that because I am going soft in my old age I may take a sleeping mat next time to avoid using the rat's nests of foam mattresses.

Three dehydrated meals later and all was cosy unless you ventured more than a metre from the fire, the hut reading material was up to the usual standard, mostly magazines full of pictures of dead pigs. Andrew decided to sleep in front of the fire (Timaru boy) while Nathan and I retired to the north wing. Coccooned in a good bag AND duvet jacket I was actually very warm although I was a bit concerned about the amount of disintegrating mattress I was inhaling.

Daybreak brought a fine day as predicted by the Metservice. It was going to be tough to leave the fire behind. Unfortunately it was just after we had put the fire out that we realised that we had some cold related mechanical issues. The bikes had been inside overnight but all derailleurs and jockey wheels were frozen solid. Consequently we had to resort to the warm body fluids defrosting technique. Despite this we were still experiencing seizures as we rode through streams and colder patches of the morning air.

The patches of sunshine that were now appearing provided some welcome relief from the cold. A new road round to the Blue Mountain station enabled us to avoid a couple of river crossings which was quite a relief at this point. A quick detour to the farmstead enabled us to hand over some cash for the use of the hut.

The subsequent gentle climb up Bernard stream was very enjoyable and in my current state of fitness just the right gradient! Further up the hill Nathan disappeared off into the distance, at the time I thought he was just displaying the benefits of youth but he actually had no choice as his front derailleur was stuck on the middle ring. Impressive all the same.

The ride down the other side is very pleasant until the last kilometre or two before the Andrews stream where many stream crossings are necessary. This was just a case of forget about the numb feet and get on with it. Once at the Andrews it is a very good road all the way back to complete the loop.
I think the total distance was about 55kms and would be a very nice one day loop if you don't fancy the overnight experience. Permission is required from Orari and Blue Mountain stations.

The Heaphy.

The Heaphy track has been closed to mountain bikes for 16 years. A sustained effort by interested groups and individuals has resulted in the Department of Conservation (DOC) running a three year trial whereby bikes are allowed to ride the track between the 1st of May and the 30th of September during daylight hours. The latter restriction is designed to protect the Kiwis from 26 or 29 inch wheels.

I had this trip on my list of 'must be done' adventures but didn't plan to do it until next winter. That is until I received an invitation by text from Iain Lawson late on a Wednesday night. Iain, Joy Skilton and Graham Slow had been trying to do the ride for the previous two weekend but seriously adverse weather had caused them to postpone. The fourth member of their party could no longer make it on this particular weekend so I was offered a place. A bit of shuffling of some work stuff was necessary but I was in the game. The plan was to enjoy the ride over three days leaving from Karamea and finishing on the Eastern side. An overnight stop at the 'Old Nurses Home' backpackers in Reefton saw us on our way to a fine late breakfast at the Last Resort in Karamea.

The weather forecast was perfect for the next three days, we sorted out our gear and food and were on the bikes by midday. About 3 minutes into the expedition Iain spotted a sign that said that hut booking documentation must be carried and promptly returned to the car! We only had 16kms to cover to the Heaphy hut so we took the opportunity to take many photographs. The way that the west coast bush meets the sea is always spectacular.

Any possibility of a cruisy start is blown out of the window as the track rears up over Kohaihai Bluff then down to Scotts Beach, the scenes are idyllic with Nikau palms and golden granite contrasting the lush green of the bush. The Nikau palm is the only palm species native to mainland New Zealand. The cameras are doing overtime, thank goodness for digital photography. A couple of detours onto the beach are necessary which could provide more than a bit of excitement at high tide. This really is a beautiful piece of mountain biking. Two hours after leaving the car the track emerges onto the front lawn of the Heaphy hut (28 bunk) where a friendly DOC warden greets us. This is quite some place to spend your winter!

After reserving bunks and making a couple of brews Graham launches into hunter gatherer mode and is seen heading for the lagoon brandishing a telescopic rod and reel. The rest of us follow him down a bit later but don't find the evening meal lying on the beach. Apparently there is cellphone coverage out on the beach in case there is a need to contact anyone or a desperate urge to get onto social networking.

A pleasant night in a cosy half full hut leads us into the biggest day of our trip. The tramping sign indicates that it is a six hour walk to the James Mackay hut (26 bunk), given that most of this is uphill it is hard to estimate the implication for mountain bikes. I doubt if DOC would ever dare to give estimated times for mountain biking as I suspect there is a much bigger wider spectrum of riding speed than walking speed.

The first hour of riding winds through the bush alongside the Heaphy river. There were a few muddy bits which just provided extra interest. I have however heard of parties completing this section with much of it spent up to the knees in water! The wire suspension bridges are quite a challenge with a bike and it is worth fording the river if it is safe to do so. At the end of this section lies the Lewis Hut (20 bunk) and the start of a 900m climb.

After a refreshment stop Graham takes the opportunity to shoot off on his own. This turns out to be a reasonable strategy as on a long climb it is often nice to settle into your own pace. The first half of the climb is comfortably rideable but after that I kept finding places where I had to hop off, increasingly so until about 2kms from the hut. Riding the other way with gravity on your side I think it would all be rideable. I hasten to add that I am not a 'technical' rider and tend to err on the safe side when carrying a pack six hours walk from a road end.

Arrival at the hut yields an amazing view back out to the morning's start point. The beach at the Heaphy river mouth is clearly visible. The bonus is that Graham has made use of the 90 seconds he arrived ahead of me to get the brews on. Our car key swap team from Nelson are also present so the logistics are slotting into place. News from the other parties is that the next section is muddy and tricky in places so after a few photos and some more tiffin we head off.

The information proved to be correct and the next few kms involved some boggy and rocky sections but in a really nice environment. Energy levels were flagging a bit on this section and some magic jelly beans were brought into play. The track rapidly improved where more work has been done and the descent through the bush to the open area before the Saxon Hut was really nice. The Saxon Hut looked full and Joy managed to meet someone she knew, with only 30 minutes until dark we had to press on but the section from here to the Gouland Downs hut was mostly downhill with one river crossing.

The Gouland Downs hut has only 8 bunks so it is a really cosy tramping hut, apparently it's a great place to spot Kiwi after dark but our searches met with no success.

Graham bounced out of bed at about 6am and got the fire and the brews going so we were only waiting for it to get light before starting the days riding. The next section to Perry saddle was a very pleasant but in places rocky, uphill ride. I decided to go ahead and get the tea ready at the hut, it's really nice doing a ride like this with no time pressure whatsoever.

Just after the others arrived at Perry Saddle Hut a group of three turned up who were just starting their trip. It's a long climb up from Brown Hut (18kms) so they looked a bit warm! Their apparent leader strutted into the hut 'balls first' and announced that they had to be in Karamea for a helicopter at 3pm. The presumption seemed to be that we were interested in his schedule. He followed this by asking if we were taking four days for the ride. On a good day you couldn't give him three out of ten for social skills.

This scenario is described here because I feel that if biking access to the track is ever questioned it is likely to be due to bad manners from the riders who are on the one day quest and not giving way to others.

Following this encounter there was nothing left to do but cruise down the 18Km descent to Brown Hut and the other car. Lunch in Takaka, car swap in Murchison and the drive home. Well done to Graham for doing all the driving. No mean feat.

Wharfedale Track - Mountain Bike Trip

After talking about getting out and doing this track for many years, it finally happened on Sunday . This is touted as the best and longest stretch of single track in Canterbury - curving through the beech forests around Mount Oxford.







The complete loop is 75kms and takes around 7 hours. This is the most logical trip but if you're just into technical single track then the out and return trip to the saddle or huts (3 and 5 hours respectively) will be a more satisfying jaunt.

There were only two of us on this trip, myself and Andrew Trevelyan who has better single track skills than me so I was somewhat apprehensive as I seem to know a lot of people who have only done this ride once.

We adopted the normal plan of parking in Oxford to get the 10km road section done at the start. You ride west through the town and after 10km turn right into Woodstock Road. Continue until you hit Perhams Road where an AA sign indicates the start of the Wharfedale Track.
Spin up the road, opening and closing some gates on the way (always leave them as you find them). You'll eventually reach a car park at the road end. Cross the stile and enter the single track section.

Neither of us regarded ourselves as having much above average fitness so we were keeping the heart rate down with the prospect of seven hours in the saddle ahead.
The single track winds up through the forest to the saddle, I found most of it rideable but at one point managed to tumble off the track down a steep bank into the bush. This increased my caution as any serious injury once a couple of hours into the ride would be rather inconvenient. When in the backcountry on a mountain bike it can be easy to forget that the two hours you have just ridden is a very long walk in the event of a serious 'mechanical' or injury.

The descent form the saddle to the Wharfedale Hut is good fun with some quite tricky parts and some unrideable parts (for me). The area around the hut seemed to be some kind of sandfly meeting place so we didn't loiter. If you are just into single track you could return from here via the same route.

We took over 3 hours to get to the Wharfedale Hut but if you started at the car park it would be less. Personally, at this point I was happy to move onto 4WD track and relax a bit!

The route from here follows the Townshend river before joining the gravel road near the bridge over the Ashley river. Two decent hills are then negotiated before a quick few kms on the road back into Oxford. Despite the fatigue this section is very scenic with the spectacular Ashley Gorge far below.

All in all this was a very satisfying day out with a good balance of tricky stuff and pleasant scenic riding.

Mount Binser.

The 14th of December had been in the diaries of everyone concerned for about two months. It is actually very impressive that a boys day out could be pulled off so close to Christmas, with all the usual activities that are on the go. What was even more impressive was that the weather forecast was very good.














This particular tramp was my idea as I'd looked at Mount Binser several years ago while biking up the Poulter river valley and thought the views from the summit must be superb. This could bring blame or praise depending on how the day panned out.
We left town at 0700, with myself Jason, Alistair and Richard, Alistair was so keen we found him halfway down Bowenvale Avenue before we got to his house. Just warming up. The pleasant 90 minute drive took us to just beyond Mt. White bridge and the DOC sign indicating the track to Binser Saddle (see map above). A quick sort out and application of DEET saw us under way. The weather was warm, still and overcast. Perfect tramping conditions.




















The walk to the saddle took 90 minutes at a steady pace, it was actually a bit steeper than I expected from looking at the map.




















From the saddle about 500m of bush bashing was required to emerge onto the open hillside. No route was obvious and the bush was very dense in places. There was actually a very nice clearing on the sadlle which would make a nice campsite with water available nearby.












The hillside above was really quite steep and after a lunch stop it was a fairly gruelling couple of hours up to the first peak at 1753m. Al was suffering a wee bit on this section (something about an overdose of Tiger beer two nights before) but kept going well. Richard as usual was bounding ahead untroubled by the gradient. Jason did a great job of providing moral support for Al.












A brief stop for food and water and we were off along the ridge towards the next peak at 1831m. The ridge looked very 'interesting' but proved to be fine. Steep drops to the West and fractured rock would make it unpleasant in a strong wind.




















This section was negotiated in about 45 minutes and was very reminiscent of Scotland.












From the top of the peak at 1831m we could see the summit of Mount Binser and also the car a long way below. maybe we should start talking in feet as Mount Binser is over 6000 feet.




















There were also a couple of remaining snow patches on the next section.




















Al may have been slightly hypoxic at this point as he started waving his arms around and making strange finger signals.




















One thing that is really great on a day trip is the small pack that you have to shoulder. The final grunt up to the summit of Mount Binser (1860m) really made my legs hurt. Richard refused to stop so I just managed to stay with him in a completely non competitive way.








The 360 degree views from this summit are amazing. I took some panaoramas which I will post on my Zenfolio site (http://petedawson.zenfolio.com/ ) as the blog format does not work with them.








Three handsome chaps!!!

The descent down the SW ridge looked straightforward but it is a continuous 1200m steep down. My quads were still sore on the following Thursday. As we started the descent I asked Jason and Richard to hurry so I could get a shot of Al without their upper bodies only in the shot.












Jason commented in his own way on my request that he get out of the photo. (_!_) to you too mate :-)












Arrival at the Mt. White road still left us with a 4km walk and jog along the road. That made it an 8.5 hour day. A beer and steak and chips in the Springfield pub rounded it off nicely.